The Gardens of Villa d’Este

The classical and symbolic world of a humanist cardinal seeking solace in an era torn by the Counter-Reformation

In the heart of Tivoli, just outside Rome, stands one of the finest expressions of Renaissance culture: Villa d’Este. Renowned for its innovative design and the artistic flair of its architectural elements, this 16th-century complex represents the pinnacle of Italian garden design. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001, Villa d’Este enchants visitors from around the world with its opulent setting, composed of lush terraces, meandering paths, nymphaea, and grottoes, offering a journey through time that weaves together history, art, and nature.

The estate, encompassing both the Palace and the Gardens, was designed by the painter, archaeologist, and architect Pirro Ligorio at the request of Cardinal Ippolito II d’Este, son of Alfonso I, Duke of Ferrara, and Lucrezia Borgia. Appointed governor of the region in 1550, Cardinal d’Este sought a residence befitting his elevated status and reflecting his passion for antiquity. Inspired by the princely leisure of Villa Adriana, he revived the grandeur of the Ferrara and Roman courts on the slopes of the Valle Gaudente, creating a space that harmonized classical elegance with the spirit of the Renaissance.

The structure was not built entirely from scratch but was adapted from the convent adjoining the church of Santa Maria Maggiore, which still serves as the Villa’s entrance today. Originally conceived as a refined setting for the cardinal’s meetings and conversations, the luxurious Villa was completed in 1572, spanning nearly five hectares. A period of decline followed when ownership passed to the Habsburgs, lasting until the mid-19th century, when Cardinal Gustav Adolf von Hohenlohe-Schillingsfürst initiated a restoration. During this time, the composer Franz Liszt, a guest at the Villa, drew inspiration from its atmosphere for several pieces in his Années de Pèlerinage. Following World War I, the Villa was acquired by the Italian state, and in the 1920s and 1930s, it underwent extensive restoration before opening to the public. Another series of restorations took place after World War II to repair damage caused by bombing during the conflict.

The interiors of the main floor of the Palace are particularly noteworthy, featuring frescoes on the walls and ceilings created by leading artists of late Roman Mannerism under the direction of Livio Agresti da Forlì. While the Palace itself is captivating, a stroll through the gardens is an unparalleled experience. Upon entering, visitors are transported into a landscape adorned with statues, fountains, water displays, and music, which cascade down steep slopes to a terrace with a breathtaking view of the Aniene River valley. The arrangement of the architectural elements was skillfully designed to disguise the irregular shape of the garden, using optical illusions to alter the perception of its transverse and longitudinal dimensions.

The creative ingenuity of architects and engineers harnessed the power of the Aniene River to operate this remarkable water garden: a sophisticated hydraulic system that relied on natural pressure and the principle of communicating vessels. Ligorio devised an intricate network of pipes and a 600-meter-long underground tunnel, channeling water from the Aniene to a large collection basin that supplied the garden’s fountains. Due to its advanced engineering features, Villa d’Este played a crucial role in popularizing the Italian garden style across Europe, characterized by meticulous geometries, well-manicured hedges, and the dramatic use of water.

The layout of fountains and pathways embodies a carefully crafted symbolism inspired by the cardinal’s passion for classical mythology. The garden’s paths are arranged across three levels, each symbolically representing a local watercourse — the Albuneo, Ercolaneo, and Aniene — ultimately leading to the Tiber, which is evoked by the Fountain of Rometta, positioned on the belvedere overlooking the Roman plain.

Along the pathway that greets visitors stands the majestic Oval Fountain, where cascades of water veil a semicircular nymphaeum adorned with mosaics and statues set within elegant niches. In 1661, at the behest of Rinaldo d’Este, Bernini designed the Fountain of the Great Glass and modified the cascade of the Fountain of the Organ, transforming it into one of the era’s most captivating marvels. Through a clever hydraulic system that utilized water pressure, the fountain could produce melodies, astonishing visitors with its enchanting sound effects.

Further along, one encounters the remarkable Fountain of Neptune, renowned for its powerful water jets that create a striking visual spectacle. Restored in 1927 by Attilio Rossi, the fountain revives Bernini’s original waterfall, which had suffered significant deterioration after nearly two centuries of neglect. Descending from there, three large Peschiere (fishponds) create an atmospheric setting, ideal for tranquil strolls. In the past, these ponds were used to breed prized fish species, allowing guests of the Villa to enjoy fishing as well as savor fresh fish delicacies at the table.

Situated on the north side of the garden, near the original entrance to the Villa, the Fountain of Abundance features a travertine replica of the Diana of Ephesus. Water flows from the statue, whose many breasts symbolize the fertility of nature and the continuous flow of life, as though representing the very lifeblood of existence. The Tiburtine tufa backdrop, meanwhile, seems to emanate both history and nature in unison. Sculpted by Flemish artist Gillis Van den Vliete, the statue originally graced the central niche of the Organ Fountain. In 1611, at the request of Alessandro d’Este, it was relocated to a more secluded spot in accordance with the stringent Counter-Reformation edicts that condemned pagan imagery. In its place, a small temple was erected, housing the sophisticated hydraulic organ from which the fountain took its name, adding yet another layer of enchantment to the Villa.

Among the legends associated with Villa d’Este, one of the most captivating involves the magical properties allegedly attributed to some of the fountains. It is said that drinking water from the Fountain of the Owl would bring good fortune, while the Fountain of Dragons, with its winged creatures, would startle visitors with sudden jets of water and eerie sounds.

Villa d’Este is not only a masterpiece of architecture and landscape design but also a source of inspiration for writers and artists. Its timeless atmosphere and extraordinary beauty have made it a popular setting for numerous films and TV series. The iconic Avenue of the Hundred Fountains, for instance, served as the backdrop for the famous banquet scene in William Wyler’s Ben-Hur and features prominently in several episodes of the Netflix series Kaos. Along this avenue, water flows from zoomorphic masks, mingling with decorative elements such as lilies and eagles — emblems of the Este family — as well as small boats and obelisks symbolizing papal authority.

A cultural and natural treasure to be safeguarded for future generations, Villa d’Este also serves as a venue for events such as concerts and exhibitions, blending the ancient Renaissance charm with contemporary culture. These events keep alive an artistic legacy that continues to inspire and captivate.

From TriviHo to Villa d’Este: a journey of relaxation and culture

An excursion between the wonders of Tivoli and relaxation in Rome

Today, Villa d’Este is one of the most visited tourist destinations in Lazio, attracting thousands of visitors each year eager to admire its splendor and uncover the secrets of its history. During your stay at TriviHo – Luxury Hotel Rome, don’t miss the opportunity to visit this earthly paradise and immerse yourself for a few hours in the dream of Ippolito II d’Este.

At the end of the day, return to the comfort and relaxation of our hotel in Rome. Stop by our rooftop bar to unwind with delicious aperitifs and refreshing drinks. Our elegant, beautifully appointed rooms provide the perfect retreat to recharge your energy. Whether you’re traveling solo, as a couple, or with family, and planning a special stay in the Capital, you’ll be pampered with every comfort in a glamorous and refined setting. Additionally, our attentive staff is always on hand to offer advice and suggestions for extra excursions and attractions to explore during your visit.

How and when to visit Villa d’Este in Tivoli

Everything you need to know for a perfect tour

Together with Villa Adriana and Villa Gregoriana, Villa d’Este forms a must-see trio for anyone visiting Tivoli, often referred to as the “city of villas.”

Located in Piazza Trento, Villa d’Este is open daily, with visiting hours varying by season. It is recommended to book tickets in advance, especially during peak season, to avoid long waits. The entrance fee is 15 euros, and a typical visit lasts about two hours. However, admission is free on the first Sunday of each month.

For a more personalized experience, consider opting for a private tour with a licensed guide, allowing you to explore the villa and gardens at your own pace, with a flexible schedule tailored to your preferences.

The villa is situated 38 km from Rome and is easily accessible by car or public transportation. From TriviHo on Via Barberini, take Metro Line A to the Termini station, and then follow the signs for regional trains. Alternatively, you can take a Co.Tra.L bus to Tivoli from the Ponte Mammolo station. Once in Tivoli, Villa d’Este is just a short walk from the station, with signs guiding you to this historic site.